How to Vacation in Ireland

First Things First

The lush countryside and exciting cities of the Emerald Isle are things of myth and legend. From the Blarney Stone to the Book of Kells, the Emerald Isle never fails to bewitch even the most seasoned traveler.

Ireland is a member of the Eurozone, the group of countries that uses the Euro currency (€). (Prices below are expressed in U.S. dollars for convenience; check the rate of exchange prior to arrival in Europe.) You shouldn't have any trouble communicating, but don't be ashamed to ask folks to slow it down a bit. They'll smile, but they probably won't slow it down.

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Where to Stay

This is the part of the world that introduced us to crisp linens, huge breakfasts, B&Bs, castle stays, and classic hospitality the world over. In the countryside, you'd be hard pressed to find a place that wasn't at the very least memorable. In Dublin, especially, always have reservations, especially at peak travel periods and over traditional holidays.

If you're traveling around Ireland, staying near a rail station is a good idea, since you'll have access to a tourist office, ATMs, and other services t'boot. But there are plenty of places in Ireland that aren't near rail stations. Villages, hamlets, and towns pepper the island nation. You'll most likely rent a car to get to and from these idyllic places. And once in them, finding what you want or need is a breeze. Just ask someone, anyone, and you'll get your answer. Ireland's just sorta like that.

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Getting to Your Hotel

...From Dublin International Airport
Buses run at most sane hours of the day between the airport and the city bus station, from where there are plenty of double-decker or, if rain makes such a thing unattractive, "regular" and mini buses to all points of the city. Check at the tourist information booth at the airport or central bus station for schedules and route maps. Fares are just a few euros, depending on where you're going. First-come, first-serve taxis line up outside most terminals for a more private, but $27-dollar fare into town. Chat it up with the taxi driver and you'll get a real lesson in history, lore, politics, religion, Guinness, and the most important topic of all, traffic.

...From Dublin's Heuston, Connoly, and Pearse Stations
DART, Dublin's rapid transit system, serves all three of Dublin's main train stations. DART uses very economical tickets available in one-trip, one-day, or four-day packets.

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At Your Hotel or B&B

Free city maps and other information can usually be obtained in hotel lobbies or from the front desk. Check in, freshen up, and, with your bags unpacked, your room key in your pocket, and ready to lose a few pounds, pence, euros, and cents, Ireland is yours!

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Around Ireland

One of the easiest ways to see as much of Ireland as possible is with a rental car or railpass. More and more people are taking "self-drive" tours—renting a car and heading out to the open (narrow, windy, thrilling) road to see the castles, villages, and shores of Ireland.

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Musts:

Dublin: A few companies offer circuit, hop on-hop off tours of the city for about $15. Buy a ticket right on the bus and hop on and off at will for 24 hours. As they are in London, the tour busses are double-decker jobs, brightly colored, and make you look dopey. But the tours are informative, and you get to see everything. Besides, lots of the busses run late at night and early in the morning, so you can use it as transport if, oh for some reason, you can't walk back to your hotel.

It's Good For You: You have our permission to head to the Guinness Storehouse first. The actual factory is no longer open to the public, but the new touring facility, opened by none other than Bill Clinton in 2000, is very well laid out. You'll wander on your own through the brewing process, ending up at the Gravity Bar, where Guinness will treat you to a frothy, creamy pint with a bird's-eye view of Dublin.

Reliving Your College Days: Trinity College is smack in the center of Dublin, near the best shopping streets, the River Liffey, and Temple Bar. You'll pass it. Head inside the gates to the Old Library for a viewing of the darn-near-magical Book of Kells. Upstairs from the gallery is the Long Room, one of the best-stocked reading rooms in all of Europe, and is graced with well-positioned busts of the greats.

Getting the Perfect Sweater: It can be found, especially if you look along Henry Street or Nassau Street in Dublin. Pedestrian shopping zones are cozy, equipped shopping elegant but rather small (by American standards) shopping malls, and notoriously overpriced, especially in the sweater department. Head to side streets from there for lower priced items.

The Wrong Side of the Road: You'll get used to it. Spend a few days behind the wheel as you drive to places like Blarney, Cork, Kilkenny, the Ring of Kerry, Dingle, Galway, and more. This is the way to see the real cottage, garden, village, and B&B-soaked region that you conjure when you think of the Irish countryside.

Limerick: This ancient and noble city well studied in the ways of war. So goes the City motto of a proud and rejuvenated city. Founded by the Norse and sitting at the entrance to the mouth of the Shannon river, Limerick boasts a history and tradition that demonstrates resilience in all respects.

Cork: The spirit of the Rebel City reminds the Germans of Bavaria, Americans of Texas, New Yorkers of Staten Island... Cork is an entity in and of itself, and just happens to be part of a larger place (Ireland). Cork boasts excellent dining opportunities--some of the best in Ireland. Check out the Coal Quay Market. It's not as good as it once was, but it's still worth a visit. The Cork City Gaol is a restored 19th-century prison, and Cork Heritage Park is a fantastic place for an afternoon.

Blarney Castle: This is one of the most magical spots in Ireland. Though it's heavily visited in the summer and "shoulder" season months, from about May through September, at other times of the year it's practically all yours, especially right after the gates are thrown open in the morning.

Ring of Kerry: About 112 miles around, Ireland's most popular scenic drive is located in the west of Ireland, in County Kerry, on the Iveragh Peninsula. The quaint-village-peppered drive along the seacoast typically starts and finishes in Killarney. Just remember: you can make the drive in a couple hours, a couple days, a couple weeks, or longer. It's up to you.

Dingle: The Dingle Peninsula, so named for the town about 3/4 of the way out, is much like Iveragh, but less populated. The slightly wider roads of the Ring of Kerry are good practice for the much more narrow (and, we think, more exciting) roads of Dingle. Try to fix it so that you can spend an evening in Dingle. It's a great place to relax, shop, meet new friends, and have a Guinness and stew.

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Going With the Gang

You'll be surprised at how many places welcome children. From the airports to the castles, play areas and nurseries can be found in common and uncommon places.

Dublin's Phoenix Park is home to the President's home and well worth a visit, as is the Dublin Zoo, home to more than 700 animals and birds from around the world.

South of Dublin is Kilkenny Castle, which offers tours for adults and a play area for kids. At Blarney Castle, though you wouldn't want the little ones bending over backwards to kiss the stone, you can treat them to the garden next to the castle. Complete with such magical areas as the Witches Kitchen, the Wishing Steps, and patches of clovers where one could spend hours looking for the four-leafed variety, the garden is an enchanted place that will thrill even bigger kids.

Outside of Cork is the West Cork Model Railway Village in Clonakilty. Need we say more? Near Galway is the Turoe Pet Farm, in Loughrea. These are just a few of the thousands of spots that kids will love.

For the beginning of the long road home, both Shannon and Dublin airports have kids' play areas. Look near the restaurant outside of the departure gate area in Shannon, and in departure area B in Dublin.